7 days in Kefalonia

Kefalonia Greece, October 2023

Pictures from seven days in Kefalonia — the idyllic Ionian island made a lasting impression with its aquamarine waters, green pine, cypress and olive trees, pastel hued architecture and laid back pace of life.

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Departure

After arriving on the island by night, we awoke to clear skies over the little village of Agia Effimia on Kefalonia’s east coast. We spent the day leisurely, taking in the local scene.

 

Classic Mini in Agia Efimia

The Monastery of Agia Efimia

View from our Airbnb in Agia Effimia

Wine and olives on the terrace after a dip in the sea

Cat on the terrace at the Airbnb

Sunrise from the terrace at the Airbnb in Agia Effimia

We went for a boat trip from Agia Effimia heading north along the east coast on our second day. The water was perfect for swimming, and there were many secluded coves and beaches to explore. I was charmed by the amount of vegetation growing along the rock-face at the coasts edge.

 

Mountains in the morning haze

View of Agia Effimia from the harbour

On our third day in Kefalonia we drove south along the winding coastal road to visit Melissani Cave, the harbour village of Sami, Antisamos, and the ancient Acropolis of Sami

 

Melissani Cave contains a lake that reaches a depth of 39 metres, the clear cool waters are illuminated by sunlight that enters through an aperture in the roof. We joined a small boat tour here, where a jovial man rowed us across the water, he spoke of the caves history—from the stalactites dating back over 16,000 years—to recent excavations that unveiled activity of ancient worship to the god Pan. He sang as he rowed us through the darkness, his warm notes reverberating in the chamber of the cave. He had a lovely voice.

 

Inside the chamber of Melissani Cave

I was enamoured by the old cars which comprise most of the local vehicles, seeing them everywhere felt as though we’d stepped back in time.

 

View of Ithaca from Karavomylos

View of the harbour and village at Sami

We had lunch in Sami and watched a ferry and a flotilla of sailing boats dock at the harbour

Antisamos lies at the end of the road from Sami. Its heavily wooded and there’s an isolated beach perfect for swimming.

 

Aerial view of the beach at Antisamos

All to be heard at the ancient Acropolis of Sami are the sound of the goat bells as they frolic amongst the ruins. We stayed there until the sun began to set, and stopped along the roadside on the route back to take a picture as dusk began to draw its shroud over the island.

 

Aerial view of the Acropolis of Sami

Dusk from the car window

View of the stars from the terrace at the Airbnb in Agia Effimia

We took a trip to Assos on our fourth day in Kefalonia — the picturesque village adorned with Venetian architecture is built on an isthmus connecting the main island to a peninsula with a strategically placed castle.

 

Roadside shrine near Assos

Assos

Flatbread and dips for lunch in Assos

Abandoned Venetian building in the centre of Assos

Hiking to the Venetian Castle of Assos. The route is populated by a dazzlingly green array of pines. When we reached the top of the trail we entered the castle walls through an archway, to discover an abandoned military base inside the vast and wooded grounds of this otherwise empty peninsula.

 

Trail to the Venetian Castle of Assos

Archway in the outer wall at the Venetian Castle of Assos

Abandoned military base inside the Venetian Castle of Assos

Cobble stone path through a wooded area inside the Venetian Castle of Assos

Main gate at the Venetian Castle of Assos

View of Assos seen from the top of the Venetian Castle of Assos

After leaving Assos we arrived at our 2nd accommodation, a stylish cottage in Tzamarelata set within serene family-run hillside village–Ranzo Ionio–overlooking the Ionian Sea.

 

Inside the cottage at Ranzo Ionio

View from the terrace of the cottage at Ranzo Ionio

A cat kept visiting us at the cottage and would often come and sit on my lap – or make herself comfortable on the outdoor furniture. I affectionately nicknamed her Tiramisu

View from the window inside the cottage at Ranzo Ionio

Bedroom in the cottage at Ranzo Ionio

We began the fifth day with a morning swim at Alaties beach nestled in a little enclave amongst the coastal rocks. Alaties means salt in Greek, the beach is named so for salt deposits that have dried in the rocks. After our swim we returned to the cottage where we spent the afternoon leisurely. I attempted to go for a swim in the pool – although it wasn’t nearly as warm as the water at the beach.

 

Aerial view of Alaties beach

Sempervivum near the cottage at Ranzo Ionio

To the north of the island stands the harbour village of Fiskardo, dotted with wonderfully colourful Venetian buildings, boutique stores, restaurants serving delicious cuisine, and a Roman cemetery tucked away beside the sea. Here we spent our sixth day on the island.

 

Aerial view of Fiskardo

I was fascinated with this trio of boats, largely made of wood, they had sailed from Panama to the Mediterranean

Roman cemetery in Fiskardo

Boats in the harbour at Fiskardo

View from our table at the Yacht Inn in Fiskardo where we enjoyed vegetarian moussaka and rosé wine

Sparkling water with lunch

Fish swim alongside boats at the harbours edge

View of the Venetian Lighthouse at Fiskardo

Venetian Lighthouse at Fiskardo

Returning south on our final day in Kefalonia we stopped to enjoy the blue waters at Myrtos beach, one of the islands best known spots that has gained a global reputation for its natural beauty.

 

Aerial view of Myrtos beach

Surf at the shore of Myrtos beach

The sunsets on Myrtos beach, with the isthmus of Assos behind

A stop on the road back south

Long exposures at Saint Theodore Lighthouse in Argostoli en route back to the airport

 

7 days in Kefalonia

Kefalonia Greece, October 2023

Pictures from seven days in Kefalonia — the idyllic Ionian island made a lasting impression with its aquamarine waters, green pine, cypress and olive trees, pastel hued architecture and laid back pace of life.

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show travel