2 days in Corfu Town

CORFU GREECE, SEPTEMBER 2024

Classified among the most important fortified-city ports in the Mediterranean, Corfu Town has a rich history, influenced by the myriad cultures that have at one time held rule of the island; from the Byzantine Greeks to the Venetian Republic; the French to the British, and the present day Corfiots. In his 1969 travelogue, ‘The Ionian Islands’, Arthur Foss’ describes Corfu Town as having “an Italian rather than an Hellenic look, largely because of its Venetian origins.” This impression is still felt half a century later, evidenced in the labyrinth of buildings that comprise the charming scene of the town.

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Map of Corfu Town from Arthur Foss’ 1969 travelogue ‘The Ionian Islands’

Spianada Square, a large park which stands between the Old Fort and the French arcaded buildings of Liston Street. The area was once occupied by houses, demolished by the Venetians in the 1500s as a measure to better improve the defensive position of the Old Fort. It was later adorned with trees by the French — including horse-chestnut, lime trees, elms and acacias. A series of monuments can be found within the grounds including a commemoration of the union of the Ionian Islands with Greece, and a rotunda erected in honour of British soldier Sir Thomas Maitland, who served as Lord High Commissioner of the Ionian Islands and Governor of Malta during the colonial period. It is styled in the Greek Revival style of neo-classical architecture, similar to the Palace of St. Michael and St. George—located at the opposite end of the square—and the Church of St. George—situated within the grounds of the Old Fort—which one may be forgive for mistaking for a temple out of Ancient Greece.

 

Woman smokes a cigarette whilst reading in Spianada Square

The Maitland Rotunda in Spianada Square

Across from Spianada Square is the entrance to the Venetian Old Fort, an impressive structure built upon a promontory beside the town. Construction of the fort was first carried out by the Byzantines, later reinforced by the Venetians, and further improved by the British in the 1800s. We traced the walls and staircases to the top to take in a view of the town, and the surrounding waters crowned the Greek mainland.

 

The Church of St. George situated within the grounds of the Old Fort

Lion of Saint Mark–symbol of the Republic of Venice–on display inside the Old Fort

Clock tower built in the Old Fort under British rule

Venetian Lion of Saint Mark on the fortifications at the Old Fort

Entrance to beach and sailing club on the northern shore of the Old Fort

People relax on the beach adjacent to the Old Fort

View of the Old Fort from the adjacent beach

Gateway into the upper fortifications of the Old Fort, beside: a Venetian Lion of Saint Mark embossed onto the wall

View of the sea tower with the Greek mainland across the water. Pictured lower right is The British Hospital which sits abandoned

Lighthouse atop the Old Fort

Northern view of the Old Fort

Spiral staircase from the Garden of the People (formerly the Palace gardens)

Palace of St. Michael and St. George built by British Lord High Commissioner, Sir Thomas Maitland, in the Greek Revival style of neo-classical architecture. The palace now houses the Corfu Museum of Asian Art

Arch at the Palace of St. Michael and St. George built in Maltese stone imported by the British

Classic Fiat 127

The Campiello District houses some of Corfu’s oldest buildings amongst the narrow streets of its neighbourhoods. We weaved our way through throngs of people along the market streets with their busy stores, here we purchased hand carved utensils made with olive wood harvested on the island, along with kumquat liqueur – a staple product of Corfu that has roots in the fruits introduction to the island from China by the British in 1846. The further we ventured from the hubbub of the centre, the quieter the Campiello District became, until we were eventually alone. Shadowed alleyways give way to tiny squares – one of which contains the charming Venetian Well of Kremesti. I stopped in another of these squares for a few moments and watched as a woman hung clothes from her balcony in the midday sun, warmth radiated from the walls of the picturesque houses, many of which are adorned with green shutters – a trend made popular during Venetian rule on the island.

 

The narrow streets of the Campiello District

Venetian Well of Kremesti

We stopped for lunch before leaving the Campiello District where we enjoyed some home made cherry ice cream. Beside the café stood a narrow opening between two buildings which contained a flight of steps that led to the Metropolitan Church of Our Lady Spelaiotissa, St Vlasios and St Theodora Augusta, 10th Infantry Battalion Square, and the Old Harbour.

 

View from the table where we ate lunch, looking toward the steps which lead to the Old Harbour

The Metropolitan Church of Our Lady Spelaiotissa, St Vlasios and St Theodora Augusta, the later being the famed Byzantine Empress who was responsible for restoring icons to churches following the period of Iconoclasm in the Byzantine Empire

Classic Fiat 500 and Mini on the street which runs along the Old Harbour

View of the Campiello District and 10th Infantry Battalion Square beside the Old Harbour

One of the Venetian buildings facing 10th Infantry Battalion Square

On our second morning we visited the New Fort, built by the Venetians between 1577 and 1588 as further protection from Ottoman incursions. From atop a most splendid view of the town is afforded. You can see almost everything, save for Liston Street which hides between the throng of buildings and the Old Fort that rises up at their horizon. It impressed me to look upon the immense fortifications. Walking in the confined channel between the walls of the fort and the bastion where a would-be besieger may have found himself trapped after breaking through the outer wall. Inside the forts barracks we were able to climb to the first level, which had been improved with a new staircase so that visitors could enter. A series of vast and empty chambers gave way to small windows that framed the coast and the mountains of the mainland beyond. I was delighted to discover three large Venetian lions embossed on the walls of the fortifications while walking along the road on the forts west side that leads to the port.

 

Snapshot on a street in Corfu Town while walking to the New Fort

Pink walls and bell tower of the Catholic Church of the Blessed Virgin of Carmel

Partially dilapidated building near the walls of the New Fort

View of Corfu Town from the entrance to the New Fort

The New Fort

One of three winged Lions of Saint Mark embossed onto the walls of the New Fort

Inside the walls of the New Fort

Dome atop the New Fort

Inside the New Fort dark passages give way to chambers containing windows that frame the Ionion and Corfu Town

 
 

View from a window inside the New Fort

People take in the scene from atop the New Fort

View of Corfu Town from the New Fort

Having spent much of the second day at the New Fort, we made our way back through the labyrinth of streets toward the Church of Saint SpyridonCorfu’s patron saint. Built in 1589 the church is one of the most prominent landmarks in the town, thanks to its lofty bell tower topped with red dome (the highest spot in the town, not including the forts). The churches doors open to marble floors and panelled walls, its ceiling is adorned with beautiful religious art set within gold guilt framing. Silver lamps sparkle amidst the many religious icons on display (photographs were not permitted).

 

Bell tower of the Church of Saint Spyridon – a throng of people make their way up and down Agiou Spiridonos amongst the many shops and stalls that line the narrow street

Constructed during French rule, the promenade of Liston Street is amongst Corfu Town’s best known landmarks. Built adjacent to Spianada Square, it is lined with elegant Parisian style arcades. Servers from the streets many cafés made their way to and from seating on the opposite side of the pedestrian street, where one can sit and enjoy a coffee or beer beneath the trees while looking out onto a large grassy square where children played and people gathered for games of cricket. At the night the entire avenue is lit up by its iconic lanterns that hang between each archway.

 

People enjoy the sun on Liston Street as servers make their way to and from its many restaurants

South end of Liston Street

We stopped for dinner at one Liston Street’s restaurants as the light of day began to die. Here we sat outside and saw the iconic lanterns which line the promenade come aglow. After dinner we went for a nighttime walk nearby, the many cafés and restaurants still lively with patrons. I took long some long exposure photographs of the scene.

 

People drink at the establishments along Liston Street into the early hours of morning

Long exposure of a small square on Nikiforou Theotoki Street – here I stood for near eight minutes waiting for the perfect picture as crowds continuously passed by, some stopping in front of the camera, leaving behind their ghostly trails in the pictures

Bell tower of the Church of Saint Spyridon at night

Liston Street at night

The Old Fort at night

 

2 days in Corfu Town

Corfu Greece, September 2024

Classified among the most important fortified-city ports in the Mediterranean, Corfu Town has a rich history, influenced by the myriad cultures that have at one time held rule of the island; from the Byzantine Greeks to the Venetian Republic; the French to the British, and the present day Corfiots. In his 1969 travelogue, ‘The Ionian Islands’, Arthur Foss’ describes Corfu Town as having “an Italian rather than an Hellenic look, largely because of its Venetian origins.” This impression is still felt half a century later, evidenced in the labyrinth of buildings that comprise the charming scene of the town.

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